Teng Mangansakan
When I was fourteen, my mother enrolled me in a summer culinary school run by the famous ice cream maker Magnolia at their plant in New Manila. It was an act so curious and abrupt that I have spent years trying to decipher its motive. Perhaps she imagined that if I learned how to braise, sauté, and bake, I might be dislodged from my grand ambition of becoming a doctor. A physician already existed in the family; a chef, however, would have been a novelty.
In another life, I sometimes imagine I might have become exactly a chef in a spotless apron and toque, commanding a kitchen with the precision of surgery. Yet life, as it often does, rearranged its recipes. Or to invoke my Muslim faith, it was simply not my qadr.
My mother would later complain that my cooking was bland, though this was less a culinary failing on my part than a concession to her fragile body. COPD, diabetes, and a constellation of illnesses had transformed flavor into a compromise with mortality. Salt and sugar, once harmless indulgences, were now formidable enemies. I cooked cautiously for her, reducing sodium and muting spice, while secretly perfecting richer, more dangerous dishes inspired by the culinary flamboyance of Ina Garten and Emeril Lagasse whose cooking shows I watched on cable TV. To spite my restraint, my mother would sometimes buy dried fish from the supermarket and insist I fry it; if I turned her down, she would coax my partner, Moises, to do it, reclaiming through salt what illness had stolen from her.
I carry a private guilt that she never truly tasted my culinary adventures, like the chicken steeped in garlic, lemongrass, chili, and oyster sauce; the rich rendang that is slow-simmered dark alchemy of beef and caramelized coconut milk; or the spaghetti made of plump, sweet curls of ocean-fresh shrimp caught in a fiery tempest of garlic, white wine, and crushed red pepper. These were dishes my friends enjoyed, while my mother remained excluded by necessity. Food, I learned early, was a complex bearer of desire, rebellion, and care.
Travel expanded my palate with the force of revelation. Tokyo taught me that ramen at train stations could possess quiet dignity. Venice offered shellfish so fresh they tasted of the tides. San Francisco’s onion soup suggested warmth against loneliness, while Berlin’s crispy duck crackled with histories of migration from Vietnam. Yet among all these places, it was Indonesia with its humid streets, spice-laden air, and layered cuisines that entered me most deeply.
In Brisbane, I once joked to my friend, the Indonesian filmmaker Daniel Rudi Haryanto, that somewhere deep inside me, Javanese blood must be pulsing. He laughed and noted how my surname, Mangansakan, seemed almost gastronomic. In Bahasa Indonesia, masakan means ‘cuisine’ or ‘cooking’. Makan, on the hand, means ‘to eat’. I told him that in the Kapampangan language of northern Philippines, mangan is an invitation to ‘let’s eat’. There is even a popular restaurant with branches all over Manila called Mangan. Across languages and seas, identity folded itself through food. But the bridge between my world and Indonesia was built on more than just shared syllables; it was cemented by cinema.
It felt less coincidence than destiny, then, when I returned to Jogjakarta in 2024 for the Jogja-NETPAC Asian Film Festival, where my film Salome was screened. Jogja held special resonance for me. In 2012, it was here that I received my first international film award, the NETPAC Prize, for my film Letters of Solitude. I still remember, with both amusement and fondness, the press conference where a veteran filmmaker passionately objected to my victory, lamenting in rapid Bahasa that my film moved at a snail’s pace, where nothing happened on screen, and nobody spoke half the time. Though I understood none of his words then, his animated discontent was unmistakable. The festival at first did not want to explain to me what was happening, perhaps afraid that I might feel slighted. Eventually, a volunteer translated. I realized that my cinema, in its stillness, had provoked something fierce and ingrained.
This return to Jogja was accompanied by Moises, whose culinary curiosity had been sharpened by many of my stories of my various trips to Indonesia. Our initiation began during a ten-hour layover at Singapore Changi Airport, where he first tasted curry puffs, those golden, flaky parcels whose buttery crust gave way to warmly spiced potato and chicken, and laksa, with its rich coconut broth humming with chili, belacan, and aromatics. His eyes widened. “Wait until we’re in Jogja,” I told him. Changi was just a prelude.
By mid-morning the next day, exhausted yet thrilled, we arrived in Jogja, that fabled cultural capital of Java. Unlike Jakarta’s restless velocity, Jogja feels contemplative, steeped in artistic and culinary memory. Here, food is nourishment for the body and spirit.
Yogyakarta or Jogjakarta, often affectionately called Jogja, occupies a singular place in the soul of Indonesia where history, monarchy, revolution, and artistry coexist with uncommon grace. Founded in 1755 following the Treaty of Giyanti, which divided the Mataram Sultanate, Yogyakarta became the seat of the Sultanate of Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat under Sultan Hamengkubuwono I. Unlike many royal capitals diminished by modernity, Jogja has retained its living court culture, with the Kraton still serving not merely as a historical monument but as an active center of Javanese philosophy, ritual, music, dance, and governance.
During Indonesia’s struggle for independence, Yogyakarta briefly served as the nation’s capital from 1946 to 1948, offering refuge to republican leaders and symbolizing resistance against Dutch colonial reoccupation. This role cemented its reputation not only as a guardian of tradition but also as a cradle of nationalism. What distinguishes Jogja is its extraordinary ability to preserve heritage while remaining intellectually and creatively dynamic. It is widely regarded as Indonesia’s cultural capital, where batik-making, wayang kulit or shadow puppetry, gamelan music, classical dance, and literary traditions remain deeply embedded in everyday life. The city’s proximity to monumental sites such as Borobudur and Prambanan Temple further situates it within a civilizational crossroads of Hindu-Buddhist, Islamic, and indigenous influences.
Yet Jogja is not frozen in nostalgia. Its universities, thriving arts scene, independent cinemas, and street culture make it a place where young Indonesians continually reinterpret identity. In Jogja, one senses that they take pride in their culture, living it, and not just displayed for tourists alone. It is brokered and nourished daily, much like its cuisine that is diverse, enduring, and profoundly rooted.
Our hotel stood just a short walk from Empire XXI Cinema on Jalan Urip Sumoharjo, placing us near the festival’s vibrant heart. Almost immediately, I led Moises to The House of Raminten, a place as theatrical as it is beloved. Even at three in the afternoon, we waited twenty-five minutes for a table, evidence of its near-mythic reputation. Inside, the restaurant unfolded like a dreamscape of Javanese eccentricity with traditional décor, servers in regal attire, the scent of incense mingling with fried shallots and sweet coconut.
We ordered generous versions of fried chicken lacquered with spice, gudeg with its tender young jackfruit stewed for hours in palm sugar and coconut milk until sweet and earthy, and fried tempeh and fresh salads brightened by sambal. Gudeg, Jogja’s culinary emblem, was unlike anything else. Its sweetness is a philosophy on its own, with patience enhancing the flavor. Moises, overwhelmed by the assertive spice, reached desperately for es teh manis, the ubiquitous sweet iced tea that in Indonesia feels like salvation steeped in cold beverage.
Between screenings, we frequented D’Agro Fine Coffee beside the theater, where Jogja’s coffee culture revealed itself in quiet ways. Indonesian coffee is robust, often volcanic in temperament, but here it was served with warmth and intimacy. Jogja’s cafés are less performative than metropolitan coffee houses elsewhere. They feel lived-in, spaces where artists, students, and dreamers gather over slow cups and slower afternoons.
One day, we wandered through Malioboro Street and Beringharjo Market, where commerce, tradition, and hunger converge. The market was an orchestra of aromas of clove cigarettes, ripe fruit, frying oil, cinnamon. We sampled es dawet, a cooling drink of coconut milk, palm sugar, and green rice flour jelly that slid sweetly across the tongue, and spring rolls from a local eatery whispered to be favored by rock star turned President Joko Widodo.
Days later, when Rudi finally arrived from Jakarta, he brought us to a modest sidewalk satay stall for Padang-style skewers. He recommended sate kambing, or grilled goat meat, but the owner initially claimed she had run out. Yet when later customers requested goat meat, she agreed. Rudi, indignant, intervened with theatrical persistence until the coveted kambing arrived at our table. The victory felt communal. The satay, smoky and rich, justified the confrontation entirely.
Then there was durian.
As someone from Mindanao, durian is already woven into my sensory inheritance. But one evening, Rudi took us far across the city to a durian stall outside a television station, where I encountered varieties I had never imagined. Some were buttery beyond comprehension, delicate and almost floral. Others were sweet with an elegance that dissolved all prejudice. And then there were those whose odor verged on decay, affirming every fear outsiders harbor. It struck me then that hatred for durian may simply be an accident of first encounter. Had skeptics tasted only its worst incarnations? Could love, even for something so divisive, depend entirely on introduction?
In Jogja, I began to understand food beyond a biological necessity or the object of one’s Instagram daily feeds. It is truly a mirror of the self. My name, my lineage, and my travels all seemed to converge here, in this city where language and flavor echoed parts of me I had not fully articulated. Mangan. Makan. Masakan. To eat is to remember. To cook is to create belonging.
On our final day, Moises and I ate at an unassuming local chicken place called Tojoyo, just across from Empire XXI. For days it had been crowded with locals and festivalgoers alike, its popularity itself an invitation. When we finally sat down and ordered the bestseller, I expected spectacle. Instead, the fried chicken was simply crisp, fragrant, and unpretentious. No elaborate seasoning. No conceptual flourish. It was profoundly itself.
And perhaps that was the revelation.
After days of culinary exuberance, of spice and sweetness, spectacle and rarity, this modest plate reminded me that food, like identity, need not always perform complexity to feel meaningful. Sometimes, home is found not in extravagance but in essence, in the honest taste of what something truly is.
In Jogja, amid festivals and flavors, I discovered that food had always been my quietest language of selfhood. Through every bowl, skewer, and fruit, I was not merely tasting Indonesia. I was tracing ancestral echoes, private griefs, maternal memories, and forgotten hungers. I was finding, in every meal, a deeper articulation of who I had always been.